Cuba is like a museum of the communist utopias sought by the revolutionaries of the 1960’s. While the Russia and Chinese Communist countries have greatly modified their economies toward free market reform, Castro’s Cuba still believes in the utopian ideal.

Batista, the ruler deposed by Castro, ruled with force and money. He had largely neglected the poor on the large island in favor of the charms of Havana. Mobs and corporations were given free reign with Batista acquiring considerable wealth from the developments.

Batista escaped with his millions to live out his life off the coast of Spain. His soldiers faced the wrath of Castro and Che and many were executed.

Castro created a communist dictatorship with the central government making decisions. He was adamantly anti capitalist and anti free market. Private property mostly disappeared.

Health care is free for everyone. Remote towns got new schools and hospitals. Education is free for everyone, including art school, engineering and medical school. Literacy rates are very high, crime is very low. Disparities in wealth shrank dramatically. Cuba has a thriving arts community and Castro has funded museums generously.

The only problem was how to generate the wealth to pay for this. By demolishing any financial incentives economic growth came to a very quick halt. Castro nationalized almost all of the major businesses, including the cigar factories.

Between 1959 and 1965 Cuban was subjected to a brain drain as doctors, engineers and business leaders left. Castro shut off emigration.

Castro’s Cuba became a ward of the Soviet Union who valued a base so close to the United States. Soviet support hid the critical weakness of Cuba’s wealth destroying economy.

But when Glasnost came Gorbechev pulled his support and Cuba suffered greatly. Average caloric intake was cut so severely malnutrition became a threat. Even today Cubans are rationed a pound of chicken a month when it is available, meat and cheese are rarely available, feminine hygiene products are rationed and aspirin requires a prescription.

Ironically Castro makes money off the wealthy tourists who visit. Canadians can spend ten days at a beautiful resort for $600 including air fare. The Parque Central Hotel and the Hotel Nationale offer luxury few Cubans can envision.

There is no free press, no newsstands with Time, Newsweek or the New York Times. While I got CNN in my hotel room, it is not available to most Cubans. Books and media are all controlled by the government. An hour of internet access costs $6, almost 40% of an average monthly income.

Yet there is not the feel of a police state. There are few uniformed people around, though I heard that there was much plain clothed surveillance at the hotel. You were free to roam the city and even the poor neighborhoods were safe.

The price of this egalitarian utopia is simple – your freedom. You are not allowed to own property. Since the state paid for your education they own you. You cannot emigrate and profit from the education the state provided you. Fear of starvation and disease and poverty is gone, but so is the freedom to prosper, own property and live where you want.

I was most impressed that this society worked as well as it did. The Cubans are warm and industrious. Workers at the Patagas Cigar factory worked at a healthy pace with minimal supervision. General hygiene is good, the water is mostly safe. Their coffee makes Starbucks taste like battery acid.

It is delusional to think that Cuba will revert to a capitalist resort (without the oppression) shortly after Castro dies. His generation still lives for the Revolution. Monuments still honor Che Guevera and Castro, though Che is far more visible.

The younger generation is far less emotionally attached to the ideals of the revolution and change will not come until they gain the reins of power.
Cuba is a testament to great people living under a dysfunctional ideology.

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