From the abandoned old Syrian concrete outpost you can look down to the right and see a field that the Israelis once plowed with armed tractors or military escort. On the horizon to the left is the kibbutz Gadot. Before the 1967 war every home in the kibbutz had been hit at least once by fire from the Syrians looking down from the hills. Standing on top of the Syrian bunker, it is clear why Israel took the Golan Heights when they had the chance.

On another even higher hill the Syrians had even better vantage to fire on other Israeli communities with impunity.

After the initial success in the Six Day War decimating the Egyptians in the Sinai and the capturing East Jerusalem and the West Bank from Jordan, Israel took aim at the Golan. With such superior position the estimate before the War was that taking the territory may cost 3,000 Israeli soldiers; but because word of the impressive Israeli victories had reached the Syrian troops they became dispirited and put up less of a fight than expected. About 120 Israeli troops died scaling the hills of the Golan Heights, a tragic loss for such a small country, but much better than the original projections.

Many Israelis thought the Six Day War would be the last war because it was such a stunning victory, but six years later Israel became complacent. Egypt and Syria attacked and dealt a devastating blow. Syria retook the Golan Heights. Far more costly the second time, Israel pushed Syria back and retook the Golan that had become so critical to Israel’s security.

The area was hardly inhabited by the Syrians. Under Israeli rule several communities are flourishing. The Golan proved well suited for wineries and hundreds of vineyards have developed. The Golan Heights Winery is up there with some of the best wineries in Northern California. The climate, volcanic soil, and proximity to the sea provide a near perfect environment for 22 types of grapes.

The Golan was hit by thousands of rockets from Hezbollah last summer, but it is quiet and safe now. There is talk about Israel returning the Golan to Syria in exchange for a peace agreement. Israel is a matchbook on a football field surrounded by neighbors who all promise peace if only it will give each one of them a little piece of its land, but for 50 years its neighbors have only delivered war. It would be an enormous loss and a terrible tragedy if Israel gave up any of this land.

You only have to be on this land in the Golan for a few hours to see how critical it is that Israel maintains control of Golan for its own security. You can taste this country.

I personally recommend the Yarden Cabernet and the Muscat from the Golan Heights Winery.

HKO 4/25/07

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